A. Common Textile Topics:
A. Common Textile Topics:
Embedded Files
N.B: Here I am listing topics only. You can find answers in Shah Alimuzzaman Belal Sir's book (Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser), Dr. Hosne Ara Begum Madam's book (Introduction to Textile Engineering), and Prof. MA Kashem sir book's ( Garments & Technology).
[Better view on a desktop mode]
001. Definition of Textile
002. Definition of Textile fiber
003. Definition of Yarn
004. Definition of Fabric
005. Definition of Garments
006. Flow chart of textile processing.
007. Bangladeshi textile organizations
a. BTMEA
b. BGMEA
c. BKMEA
d. BDYEA
008. International textile organizations
AAMA: American Apparels Manufacturing Association
AAMC: American Apparel Manufacturing Corporation
AAQC: American Association of Quality Control
AAQC: American Apparels Quality Control
ASQC: American Society for Quality Control
ASTM: American Society for Testing Materials
BATEXPO: Bangladesh Textile Exposition
BCCFA: Bangladesh Custom Clearing & Forwarding Agent
BCI: Bangladesh Commerce & Investment
BEPZA: Bangladesh Export Processing Zone Authority
BGMEA: Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association
BGWUC: Bangladesh Garments Worker Unit Council
BJCP: Bangladesh Jute Cultivation Program
BJEC: Bangladesh Jute Export Corporation
BJMA: Bangladesh Jute Mills Association
BJMC: Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation
BKMEA: Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association
BS: British Standard
BTMA: Bangladesh Textile Mills Association
BTMC: Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation
ECM: European Common Market
EEC: European Economic Community
ECHR: European Commission on Human Rights
EPA: European Productivity Agency
EPB: Export Promotion Bureau
EPZ: Export Processing Zone
EU: European Union
FBCCI: Federation of Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce and Industries
FMC: Federal Maritime Commission
FTC: Federal Trade Commission
IATA: International Air Transport Association
IC: Inspection Certification
ICB: Investment Corporation of Bangladesh
ICC: International Chamber of Commerce
ILO: International Labor Organization
KTA: Knitted Textile Association of America
MOC: Ministry of Commerce
MOT: Ministry of Textile
PT: Private Textile Industry
Sweden BL: Sweden Bill of Lading
TCB: Trading Corporation of Bangladesh
TU: Trade Union
TUF: Technology Up gradation Fund
UNDP: United Nations Development Program.
UNEC: United Nation Economic and Development Commission
UNIDO: United Nation International Development Organization
UNITC: United Nations International trade center
WFTU: World Federation of Trade Unions
WRAP: World Wide Responsible Apparels Product
WTO: World Trade Organization
009. Contribution to GDP of Bangladesh Textile Sector.
010. Contribution of different countries in the textile sector.
011. World's most textile products manufacturer.
012. Exporter of USA textile market
013. Exporter of Europe textile market
014. Customer country of Bangladesh Textile product
015. World famous clothing brand.
B. Fibre Related Topics:
B. Fibre Related Topics:
001. Fiber definition.
002. Textile fiber
003. Polymer
004. Monomer
005. Formation of textile fiber
006. Fiber classification.
*According to the source
a. Natural fiber
i. Vegetable
ii. Animal
iii. Mineral
b. Manmade fiber
i. Regenerated
ii. Synthetic
iii. Non-organic
*According to length
c. Staple fiber
d. Filament fiber
007. Fiber properties.
008. Staple Diagram
009. Fibro-gram
010. Cotton fiber
011. Ginning
012. Lint
013. Linters
014. Faults & impurities of raw cotton
015. Grading and classification
016. Polymeric structure of cotton
017. Physical properties of cotton fiber
018. Chemical properties of cotton fiber
019. Uses of cotton fiber
020. Identification of cotton fiber
021. Producer of cotton fiber around the world
022. Composition of cotton fiber
023. Jute fiber
024. Jute gradation
025. Types of jute fiber
026. Polymeric structure of jute
027. Physical properties of jute fiber
028. Chemical properties of jute fiber
029. Uses of jute fiber
030. Identification of jute fiber
031. Producer of jute fiber around the world
032. Composition of jute fiber
033. Flax fiber
034. Flax production sequence
035. Polymeric structure of flax
036. Physical properties of flax fiber
037. Chemical properties of flax fiber
038. Uses of flax fiber
039. Producer of flax fiber around the world
040. Composition of flax fiber
041. Identification of flax fiber
042. Wool fiber
043. Classification of wool fiber according to source and animal breed
044. Topography of wool
045. Wool production sequence
046. Physical properties of wool fiber
047. Chemical properties of wool fiber
048. Wool fiber identification
049. Composition of wool fiber
050. Producer of wool fiber around the world
051. Uses of wool fiber
052. Silk fiber
053. Types of silk
054. Physical properties of silk fiber
055. Chemical properties of silk fiber
056. Uses of silk fiber
057. Identification of silk fiber
058. Other natural vegetable fiber
059. Difference among natural fiber
060. Composition of Silk fiber
061. Man-made fiber
062. Types of man-made fiber
a. Regenerated fiber
b. Semi-synthetic fiber
c. Synthetic fiber
d. Inorganic fiber
063. Principle of man-made fiber production
064. Manufacturing of fiber forming polymer
065. Polymerization
066. Types of polymerization
a. Addition
b. Condensation
067. Steps of condensation
a. Homopolymers
b. Copolymers
c. Block copolymer
068. Man-made fiber manufacturing process
a. Melt spinning
b. Dry spinning
c. Wet spinning
069. The shape of spinneret hole and fiber cross section
070. Properties of common man-made fibers
a. Acrylic
b. Glass
c. Carbon
d. Nylon
e. Spandex
f. Polyester
g. Viscose
071. World fiber production
072. Fiber Count
a. Mic
b. Tex
C. Yarn Related Topics:
C. Yarn Related Topics:
001. Definition of yarn
002. Classification of yarn
a) According to length of fiber
i) Spun yarn
ii) Filament yarn
b) According to process sequences of manufacturing
i) Carded yarn
ii) Combed yarn
c) According to formation of yarn
i) Ring yarn
ii) Rotor yarn
iii) Air jet yarn
iv) Vortex yarn
d) According to Use of yarn
i) Woven yarn
ii) Knit yarn
e) According to type of fiber
i) 100% cotton yarn
ii) P/C or T/C yarn
iii) CVC (Chief Value Cotton) yarn
f) According to No of strand
i) Single yarn
ii) Ply yarn
iii) Cord yarn
g) Some special yarn
i) Chennile Yarn
003. Yarn count system
a) Direct system
i) Tex
ii) Denier
iii) Deci-tex
iv) Mili-tex
v) Kilo-tex
vi) Jute Count
vii) Mic
b) In-Direct system
i) English count, Ne
ii) Metric count, Nm
iii) Woollen count (YSW)
iv) Woollen count (Dewsbury)
v) Worsted count, NeK
vi) Linen count, NeL
004. Others
a) What is core spun yarn (GK- 23)
005. Yarn Properties
d. Spinning process Related Topics:
d. Spinning process Related Topics:
001. Manufacturing process of short staple spinning
002. What is spinning
003. Flow chart of cotton yarn manufacturing
a. Flowchart of carded yarn
b. Flowchart of combed yarn
004. Bale management
005. Blow room section
006. Basic operation of blowroom
007. Sequences of conventional blowroom line
008. Sequences of modern blowroom line
009. Sequences of our campus conventional blowroom line
010. Object of blowroom
011. Uniflock
012. Uniclean
013. Unimix
014. Uniflex
015. Cleaning efficiency of blowroom line
016. Production rate of blowroom line
017. Wastage of blowroom line
018. Fault of blowroom (GK-13)
019. Available company for this machine
020. Rieter blowroom line
021. Trutzchler blowroom line
022. Output of blowroom section
023. Carding section
024. Objects of carding
025. Material passage diagram
026. What is carding (GK-12)
027. Parts of carding machine
028. Card clothing
029. Action in carding machine
030. Function of flat
031. Function of doffer
032. Product of carding machine
033. Characteristics of card sliver
034. Parameters of carding machine
035. Cleaning efficiency of carding machine
036. Draft necessary of carding machine
037. Production rate of carding machine
038. Recent development
039. Wastage of carding section
040. Available company for this machine
041. Drawframe
042. Function of Drawframe
043. Material passage diagram
044. What is drafting (GK-19)
045. What is drawing (GK-20)
046. What is doubling (GK-20)
047. Parts of drawframe machine
048. Task of drawing machine
049. Main element of drafting system
a. Steel fluted bottom roller
b. Soft coated top cod roller
c. Top roller pressure arm
050. Product of drawing machine
051. Characteristics of drawn sliver
052. Parameters of drawframe machine
053. Production rate of drawframe machine
054. Auto leveler
a. Open loop
b. Closed loop
055. Wastage of Draw frame
056. Available company for this machine
057. Lap former
058. Parameters of lap former machine
059. Material passage diagram
060. Production rate of Lap former machine
061. Parts of lap former machine
062. Function of lap former machine
063. Product of lap former machine
064. Characteristics of lap
065. Wastage of lap former
066. Available company for this machine
067. Comber
068. Objects of combing
069. Material passage diagram
070. Necessity of combing
071. Contribution of combing to yarn quality
072. Noil
073. Degree of combing
074. Types of combing
075. Parameter of comber machine
076. Production rate of comber machine
077. Parts of comber machine
078. Characteristics of combed sliver
079. Distinguish among card, draw and combed sliver
080. Wastage of comber machine
081. Available company for this machine
082. Speedframe
083. Function of speed frame
084. Material passage diagram
085. Drafting system
086. Twisting system
087. Types of flyer
088. Winding of the bobbin
089. The builder motion
090. Function of builder motion
091. Parameter of speedframe
092. Production rate of speedframe machine.
093. Parts of speedframe
094. Wastage of speedframe
095. Available company for this machine
096. Ring Spinning
097. Function of ring frame
098. Material passage diagram
099. Main advantages features of ring spinning machine
100. Limitations of ring spinning
101. Different parts of ring spinning machine
102. Drafting system (Hosna-98)
103. Method of applying pressure
104. Spindle
105. Lappet
106. Ballon control ring
107. Separator
108. Ring
109. Feature of a good ring
110. Traveller
111. Feature of a traveler
112. Forces acts on ring traveler
113. Ring cop
114. Twist level for different yarn
115. Parameters of ring machine
116. Production rate of ring frame machine.
117. Parts of ring machine
118. Wastage of ring machine
119. Available company for this machine
120. Table for different section draft and production
121. Unusable wastage in spinning mill (GK-16)
122. Useable wastage in spinning mill (GK-27)
123. Winding
124. NSLT settings
125. Winding machine parts
126. Wastage of winding machine
127. Machine parameters
128. Production of winding machine
129. Available company for this machine
130. Different winding package
131. Heat setting
132. Condition of heat setting
133. Machine parts
134. Available company for this machine
135. Modern spinning system
136. Rotor spinning
137. Air jet spinning
138. Air vortex spinning
139. Friction spinning
140. Wrap spinning
141. Self-twist spinning
142. Conventional spinning
143. Mule spinner
144. Flyer-spinning machine
145. Cap-spinning macjine
146. Centrifugal-spinning machine
147. Pot spinning machine
148. Jute yarn manufacturing process
149. Flow chart of jute yarn manufacturing process
150. Selection of jute for a batch
151. Piecing up
152. Softening and lubricating
153. Emulsion
154. Conditioning or pilling
155. Breaker card
156. Finisher card
157. Drawing
158. Spinning
159. Winding
160. Properties of jute yarn
161. Yarn count
162. Yarn strength
163. Jute twine
E. Fabric (weaving) Related Topics:
E. Fabric (weaving) Related Topics:
001. Fabric
002. Types of fabric
a. Inter weaving
b. Inter looping
c. Inter wining
003. Fabrics classification
a. Woven fabrics
b. Knitted fabrics
c. Nonwoven fabrics
d. Braided fabric
004. Process flow of manufacturing woven fabric
005. Weaving preparation
006. Winding
007. Winding region
a. Region 1
b. Region 2
c. Region 3
008. Side withdrawal
009. Over end withdrawal
010. Tension device
011. Yarn clearers
012. Stop motion
013. Spindle drive winder
014. Friction drive winder
015. Traversing mechanism
016. Types of package
a. Parallel wound packages
b. Near parallel packages
c. Cross wound package
017. Pirn winding
018. Precision winding
019. Winding machine
020. Warp preparation
021. Warping
022. Main purpose of warping
023. Direct warping or Highspeed warping
024. Indirect or section warping
025. Warping machines
026. Available company for this machine
027. Creel
028. Headstock
029. Control devices
030. Sizing or slashing
031. Main purpose of sizing
032. Size concentration
033. Size take up
034. Size percentage
035. Points consider for sizing
036. Sizing machine
037. Available company for sizing machine
038. Drawing and Tying
039. Drawing in
040. Tying in
041. Weaving principle
042. Basic weaving motion
a. Warp let off
b. Warp shedding
c. Weft insertion or picking
i. Yarn accumulators or feeders
d. Beat up
e. Take up
043. Auxiliary weaving motion or function
044. Fabric width
045. Weaving machine or loom (Faisal sir note)
046. Weaving machine classification
047. With respect to picking mechanism
a. Shuttle
b. Shuttle less
048. With respect to shedding mechanism
a. Tappet
b. Dobby
c. Jacquard
049. Single phase weaving machine
050. Hand loom
051. Power loom
052. Autometic loom
053. Projectiles
054. Rapiers
055. Air jets
056. Water jet
057. Multiphase weaving machine
058. Fabrics selvage or selvedges
a. Plain selvages
b. Tape selvages
c. Split selvages
d. Fused selvages
e. Leno selvages
f. Tucked in selvages
059. Grey fabrics Inspection
060. Fabric Structure and Design
061. Simple structure
062. Compound Structure
063. Identification of warp and weft
064. Grain
065. Off grain fabric
066. Skew
067. Bow
068. Structure
069. Texture
070. Sett
071. Thread density in warp and weft
072. Woven fabric specification
073. GSM
074. Foundation of woven cloth structure
075. Classification or parts of a complete design for a woven fabric
076. The weave plan
077. The drafting or looming plan
078. The lifting or peg plan
079. Denting plan
080. Point paper diagram in textile design
081. Methods of fabric representation
082. One repeat of weave
083. Contact field
084. Interlacing field
a. Single interlacing field
b. Double interlacing field
085. Free field
086. Open field
087. Formula number
088. Repeat Number
089. Interlacing ratio
090. Method of indicating draft
a. By rulling lines
b. By numbering
c. By the use of design paper
091. Classification of drafting
a. Straight draft
b. Point draft
c. Skip draft
d. Broken draft
e. Divided draft
f. Grouped draft
g. Combined draft
092. The basic weaves or structure of woven fabrics
093. Plain weaves
094. Main features of plain weaves
095. Classification of plain cloth
a. According to warp and weft cover factor
i. Approximately square cloths
ii. Warp faced cloth
iii. Weft faced cloth
b. According to balanced and unbalanced structure
i. Balanced cloth
ii. Unbalanced cloth
096. Derivatives of plain weaves
a. Rib weave
i. Regular warp rib
ii. Irregular warp rib
iii. Regular weft rib
iv. Irregular weft rib
b. Matt or Hopsack weave
i. Regular matt
ii. Irregular matt
iii. Stich matt
iv. Fancy matt
097. Ornamentation of plain cloth
098. End use of plain cloth
099. Advantages of plain cloth
100. Disadvantages of plain cloth
101. End use of these fabrics
102. Twill weave
103. Classification of twill weave
a. According to the way of construction
i. Warp way twill weave
ii. Weft way twill weave
b. According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric
i. S-twill or Lefthand twill weave
ii. Z-twill or Righthand twill weave
c. According to the face yarn
i. Warp face twill weave
ii. Weft face twill weave
iii. Double face twill weave
d. According to the nature of the produce twill line
i. Simple twill weave
ii. Expanded twill weave
iii. Multiple twill weave
104. Derivatives of twill weave
a. Zig zag or waved or pointed twill weave
b. Herringbone twill weave
c. Diamond design
d. Diaper design
e. Broken twill weave
f. Re-arranged twill weave or transposed twill weave
g. Stepped twill weave
h. Elongated twill weave
i. Combined twill weave or combination of twill weave
j. Shaded twill weave or shaded design
k. Curved twill weave
l. Corkscrew Weave
i. Odd number
ii. Even number
m. Stepped Twill weave
n. Steep or elongated twill weave
105. Advantages of twill weave
106. Disadvantages of twill weave
107. End use of these fabrics
108. Satin weave
109. Classification of satin weave
a. Regular warp satin
b. Irregular warp satin
c. Regular weft satin(sateen)
d. Irregular weft satin(sateen)
110. Move number or step value selection for satin weave
111. Construction principle of satin weave
112. Advantages of satin weave
113. Disadvantages of satin weave
114. Derivatives of satin weave
115. Crepe weaves
i. On a sateen base
ii. By reversing
iii. By superimposing
iv. On a plain weave base
116. Corkscrew weaves
117. Shaded weaves
118. End use of these fabrics
119. Fancy design or structure of fabric
120. Huckaback weaves
121. Mockleno weaves
122. Honeycomb weave
i. Ordinary Honeycomb
ii. Brighton Honeycomb
123. Distorted thread effect
i. Distorted warp effect
ii. Distorted weft effect
124. Cord weave
i. Bedford cord weave
ii. Pique weave
125. Bedford cord
a. Plain face Bedford cord
b. Wadded Bedford cord
c. Crepon Bedford cord
d. Bedford cords, arranged with alternate picks
e. Twill face Bedford cord
126. Pique weave
a. Ordinary pique or welt structure
b. Weft wadded welts
c. Fast back welt or pique structure
d. Waved pique structure
127. Sponge weave
128. End use of these fabrics
129. Colour and weave effects
130. Simple colour and weave effect
131. Compound colour and weave effect
132. Simple order of colouring
133. Compound order of colouring
134. Pattern chart for colour and weave effect
135. Construction principle of colour and weave effect
136. Simple colour and weave effect
137. End and end colouring pattern
138. Continuous line effect
139. Hair lines or pin stripe
140. Crowsfoot pattern
141. Dog’s tooth or Hound’s tooth pattern
142. Sheperd’s check pattern
143. All over effect
144. Birds eye effect
145. Stepped twill pattern
146. Compound colour and weave effects
147. Glen check
148. Figuring with extra threads
149. Main features
150. Method of introducing extra figuring threads
151. Comparison of extra warp with extra weft figuring
152. Advantages
153. Disadvantages
154. Compound Fabrics
155. Tubular cloth
----Basic principle
----Typical weaves
----Construction
156. Double width cloth
157. Multi-ply fabrics
----Basic principle
----Typical weaves
----Construction
158. End use of these fabrics
159. Stitched Double Cloths
160. Classification of double cloths
a. Self-stitched double cloths
b. Centre-stitched double cloth
c. Double cloths stitched by thread interchanged
d. Double cloths stitched by cloth interchanged
e. Alternate single-ply and double ply construction
161. Points to be considered before going to construction a double cloth
162. Selection of suitable stitching position
163. Construction principle
164. Self-stitch double cloth
165. Double cloth produced by back to face stitching system
166. Double cloth produced by face to back stitching system
167. Double cloth produced by combined stitching system
168. Wadded double cloth
169. Warp wadded double cloth
170. Weft wadded double cloth
171. Centre stitch double cloth
172. Centre warp stitch double cloth
173. Centre weft stitch double cloth
174. End use of these fabrics
175. Fabric Used in Apparel Sector
176. Fabric based on plain weave
177. Georgate
178. Chiffon
179. Voile
180. Organdy
181. Organza
182. Lawn
183. Batiste
184. Gingham
185. Chambray
186. Taffeta
187. Madres
188. Cheese cloth
189. Crinoline
190. Buckram
191. Gauge
192. Ninon
193. Calico
194. Cambric
195. Percale
196. Muslin
197. Flannel
198. Poplin
199. Broad cloth
200. Bengaline
201. Bed ford cord
202. Faille
203. Dimity
204. Oxford
205. Duck
206. Canvas
207. Sail cloth
208. Fabric based on twill weave
209. Serge
210. Twill flannel
211. Shark skin
212. Herring bone
213. Hound’s tooth
214. Denim
215. Drill
216. Jean
217. Gabardine
218. Damask
219. Fil-a-fil
220. Other commercial fabric
221. Brocade
222. Corduroy
223. Mull
224. Pin stripe
225. Ottoman
226. Panama
227. Pocketing
228. Seersucker fabric
229. Amazon
230. Terry
231. Whipcord
232. Blazer cloth
233. Trouser
234. Fabric construction or specification
F. Fabric (knitting) Related Topics:
F. Fabric (knitting) Related Topics:
001. Knitting definition
002. Types of knitting
a. Warp knitting
b. Weft knitting
003. Kink of yarn
004. Knitted loop
005. Knitted stitch
006. Top arc
007. Bottom half-arc
008. Legs or side limbs
009. Needle loop
010. Sinker loop
011. Open loop
012. Closed loop
013. Knitted loop structure
014. Course
015. Wale
016. Stitch density
017. Intermeshing points or cross over point of a needle loop
018. Loop or stitch length
019. Extended sinker loop
020. Face loop or stitch
021. Technical face or right side
022. Reverse or back loop or stitch
023. Technical back or left side
024. Double thread stitch
025. Single faced structure
026. Double faced structure
027. Balanced structure
028. Face and reverse stitches on the same surface
029. Fabric draw off
030. Knitting machines
a. Weft knitting machine
b. Warp knitting machine
c. Other loop forming and combined technique machine
031. Needles
a. Independent needles
b. United needles
032. Needle carrier
033. Fabric face type
a. RL
b. RR
c. LL
034. Number of feed system
035. Specification of knitting machine
a. The working diameter
b. The working width
c. Machine or needle gauge
d. Needle pitch
036. Selvedge fabric
037. Cut edge fabric
038. Tubular fabric
039. Warp knitted lap
a. Open lap
b. Closed lap
c. The overlap
d. The underlap
040. Basic elements of knitting (Weft)
a. The needles
i. Spring -bearded needles
ii. Latch needles
iii. Compound needles
b. The cams
i. Engineering cam
ii. Knitting cam
c. The sinkers
041. The jack
042. Method of yarn feeding
043. Method of forming yarn into needle loops
i. Method-a
ii. Method-b
iii. Method-c
044. The following steps are involved in knitting action of spring-bearded needle
a. Clearing
b. Yarn feeding or laying
c. Yarn sinking or loop forming
d. Underlapping
e. Pressing
f. Landing
g. Joining
h. Casting-off or knocking over
i. Stitch formation
j. Loop draw-off
045. The following steps are involved in knitting action of latch needle
a. Clearing
b. Yarn feeding or laying
c. Underlapping
d. Pressing
e. Landing
f. Joining
g. Casting-off or knocking over
h. Stitch formation
i. Loop draw-off
046. The following steps are involved in knitting action of compound needle
a. Clearing
b. Yarn feeding or laying
c. overlapping
d. Landing & closer of hook
e. Joining
f. Casting-off or knocking over
g. Loop draw-off
047. Weft knitting machines
048. Main feature of a knitting machine
049. Classification of weft knitting machine
a. According to the frame design and needle bed arrange
i. Circular knitting machine
ii. Flat knitting machine
b. According to the number of needle bed or number of needle set used
i. Single jersey knitting machine
ii. Double jersey knitting machine
c. According to the fabric type of weft knitting
i. Fabric machine
ii. Garment length machine
d. According to the fabric type of weft knitting
i. Plain or single jersey circular knitting machine
ii. Rib circular or flat knitting machine
iii. Interlock circular knitting machine
iv. Purl flat or circular knitting machine
e. According to the types of needle used
i. Knitting machine equipped with latch needle
ii. Knitting machine equipped with spring-bearded needle
050. Flat knitting machine
051. General structure of a flat knitting machine
----The frame
----Main feature
052. Advantages of flat knitting machine
053. Used of flat knitting machine
054. Classification of flat machine
a. Vee-bed flat knitting machine or universal knitting machine
b. Flat purl knitting machine
c. Domestic single bed flat machine
d. The uni-directional multi carriage machine
055. Circular knitting machine
056. Features of circular knitting machine
057. Products of circular knitting machine
058. Classification of circular knitting machines
a. Revolving cylinder latch needle machine
b. Revolving cylinder bearded needle single-jersey fabric machine
c. Circular garment length machine
059. Fabric machine
060. Garment length machine
061. Plain or single-jersey circular latch needle knitting machine
----Description of this machine
----Cam system
----The arrangement of knitting elements
----Sinker timing
062. Rib circular knitting machine
----Description of the machine
----Needle gating or setting or coordination between cylinder and dial grooves
----Rib gaiting
----Interlock gaiting
----Conversion from rib to interlock gaiting
----Needle timing or coordination between cylinder or dial cams
----Synchronized timing
----Delayed timing
----Advanced timing
063. Interlock circular knitting machine
----Main feature of interlock machine
----The knitting action or stitch formation or loop formation of circular interlock m/c
----Interlock cam system
----Cylinder cam system
----Dial cam system
064. Links-links or purl knitting machine
----Stitch formation or loop formation on a purl knitting machine
----links-links cam system
065. Basic weft knitted structure
a. The plain knit structures or plain fabric
b. The rib structure or rib fabric
c. The purl knit structures or purl fabric
d. The interlock structures or interlock fabric
066. Notation of these types of structure
067. Comparison between basic structure of weft knitted fabric
068. Identification of single jersey or double jersey fabric
069. Basic loops or stitch type
a. The held loop
b. The float stitch or loop
c. The tuck loop or stitch
d. The drop or press off stitch
070. Details about these four types of stitch
071. Designs of weft knitted fabric
072. Decoration or ornamentation of plain knit or single jersey fabric
073. The plain knit structure can be modified with the following alternatives
a. Knit loop & miss loop
b. Knit loop & tuck loop
c. Knit loop, miss loop & tuck loop
074. Single jersey derivatives
a. Cross miss design
b. Birds eye or double cross miss design
c. Weft Lock-nit design
d. Mock rib design
e. Single cross tuck design
f. Double cross tuck or polo pique design
g. Single Lacoste or Fred Perry design
h. Double Lacoste design
i. Simple crepe design
j. Cellular blister or popcorn design
k. Twill effects
075. Double jersey derivatives based on rib structure
a. Double pique
i. Swiss double pique
ii. French double pique
b. Half cardigan rib or royal rib
c. Full cardigan rib or polka rib
d. Half Milano rib
e. Milano rib
f. Roma rib
g. Lacoste pique
h. Gaberdine or 2*2 twill fabric
i. Poplin fabric
j. Blister fabric
k. Relief fabric
076. Non-jacquard double jersey structure or derivatives of interlock structure
a. Single pique or cross tuck interlock structure
b. Texi pique structure
c. Cross miss structure
d. Piquette structure
e. Pin tuck structure
f. Bourrelet structure
g. Jersey cord structure
h. Super roma structure
i. Punto di-roma structure
j. Cortina structure
k. Six course punto di-roma structure
l. Evermonte structure
077. Weft knitted jacquard design
a. Single jersey jacquard design
i. Accordion fabric
ii. Straight accordion fabric
iii. Alternate accordion fabric
iv. Selected accordion fabric
b. Double jersey jacquard design
i. Reverse jacquard fabric
ii. Striped backing for a two colors rib jacquard fabric
iii. Three color rib jacquard with striped backing
iv. Birdseye backing for a three colors rib jacquard fabric
078. Sweater knitting (fully fashioned knitting)
079. The advantages of the fashioning process
080. The disadvantages
081. The feature of a Vee-bed flat knitting (sweater knitting machine)
082. The manual sweater knitting machine
083. Production of different fabric on sweater knitting machine
a. The set-up
b. Tubular fabric
c. Single bed fabric
d. Rib fabric
084. Needle-bed racking
085. Stitch or loop transfer in weft knitting machine
086. Openwork weft knitted fabric
087. The welt
088. Types of welt
a. The inturned welt
b. The turned welt
c. Reverse welt
d. Accordion welt
e. Rib welt
i. The tubular or French welt
ii. The roll or English welt
iii. The racked welt
089. Garment panel separation
a. Separation by draw-thread
b. Separation by press-off
090. Shaping during knitting
091. Shape formation (fashioning)
092. Shaping calculation or fashioning frequencies calculation
093. Linking operation
094. Knitted fabric faults
095. Reason of fabric fault
096. Sources of fabric fault
097. Fabric fault
a. Broken ends
b. Drop stitch
c. Cloth fail-out or pressed-off stitches
d. Snagging or snag
e. Tuck or double loop or stitch
f. Bunching-up
g. Vertical stripes
h. Horizontal stripes
i. Soil stripes
j. Colour fly or coloured tinges
k. Distorted stitches or deformed or tilted loops
098. Calculation related to weft knitting
*Will write on textile math section
099. Relation between yarn count and machine gauge
100. Relation between yarn count and gsm
101. Warp knitting principle
102. The guide
----The guide bar
----Lapping movement of the guide bar
103. The pattern mechanism
104. Chain links
105. The warp beams
106. Lapping diagram and chain notation
107. Basic overlap or underlap variation
108. Basic lapping movements or basic stitches in wrap knitting
a. Pillar or chain stitch
b. Tricot stitch or 1 and 1 lapping movement
c. Cord stitch or 2 and 1 lapping movement
d. Longer reciprocating lapping movements
e. Atlas stitch or lapping movement
f. Two needle overlap
109. Warp knitting machinery
110. Tricot warp knitting machine
111. Main feature of the tricot warp knitting machine
112. Knitting element of the tricot warp knitting machine
a. The needle
b. Sinker
c. Guides and guide bars
113. The knitting cycle or stitch formation of the tricot warp knitting machine equipped with bearded needles
114. Basic knitting action of a tricot warp knitting machine equipped with compound needles
115. Raschel warp knitting machine
116. Main feature of the raschel warp knitting machine
117. Knitting elements of the raschel warp knitting machine
a. The needle
b. Trick plate
c. The sinkers
d. The latch Guard
e. Guides and guide bars
118. Basic knitting action of a single needle bar latch needle raschel warp knitting machine
119. The knitting action of a compound needle raschel warp knitting machine
120. Two fully threaded guide bar structure or fabrics
a. Tricot fabric or full tricot structure
b. Locknit fabric
c. Reverse locknit fabric
d. Satin fabric (Three-needle structure)
e. Sharksking fabric
f. Four needle structure
g. Queen’s cord fabric
h. Laid-in fabric
i. Pile fabrics or loop raised fabric
121. Special knit fabric production
122. Knitted pile fabrics
a. Fleece knit fabric
i. Single thread fleece
ii. Two thread fleece
iii. Three thread fleece
b. High pile knit fabrics or sliver knit fabrics
c. Plush fabrics or knitted terry fabrics
123. The crochet warp knitting machine
124. Features of a typical crochet machine
125. Needles used in crochet machine
a. The patent or carbine bearded needle
b. Embroidery or lace needles
c. The compound needle
d. Lace needles
126. The knitting action of the crochet machine
a. The weft inlay
b. Clearing the warp overlap
c. The warp overlap wrap
d. Warp knock-over and underlap
127. The products of the crochet machine
128. The straight bar frame
129. The main feature of a straight bar frame
130. Knitting motion of the straight bar frame
131. The knitting head of the straight bar frame
132. Knitting action of a plain straight bar frame
a. Thread laying
b. Dividing
c. Pressing
d. Landing
e. The drop-off
f. Completion of knock-over
133. The fashioning action of the straight bar frame
134. Netting or net fabrics
135. The main feature of net fabric
136. Types of nets
a. Bobbinet
b. Tulle
c. Fishnet
d. Filet net
137. Lace fabrics
138. The main feature of lace fabric
139. Parts of lace construction
140. Uses of laces
141. Quality and care of lace
142. Types of lace
a. Handmade lace or real lace
i. Bobbin lace
ii. Darned lace
iii. Needle point lace
iv. Crocheted lace
v. Tatting lace or knotted lace
b. Machine made lace
i. Leavers lace
ii. Nottingham lace
iii. Bobbin lace
iv. Raschel race
v. Ratine lace
vi. Schiffli lace
143. Notation Diagram
144. Cam Arrangement
145. Fabrics Design
146. Fabrics Identification
G. Dyeing Related Topics:
G. Dyeing Related Topics:
001. Flowchart of dyeing process
002. Three main heading
a. Pre-treatment
b. Dyeing
c. Finishing
003. Pretreatment process
004. Flowchart of pre-treatment process
005. Inspection of grey fabric
006. Stitching
007. Shearing and cropping
008. Singeing
009. De-sizing
----Method of de-sizing
a. Hydrolytic
b. Oxidative
010. Scouring
011. Bleaching
----Types of bleaching agents
a. Oxidizing agents
b. Reducing agents
012. Souring
013. Mercerizing
014. Washing
015. Rinsing
016. Drying
017. Dyes and dyeing
018. Dyes
019. Classification of dyes molecule
a. Anionic
b. Cationic
c. Disperse
020. Classification of dyes
a. By their ionic
i. Cationic
ii. Anionic
iii. Non-ionic
b. By their dye abilities
i. Cellulosic
ii. Protein
iii. Polyester
iv. Polyamide
v. Etc.
c. By their names
i. Reactive
ii. Vat
iii. Acid
iv. Direct
v. Disperse
vi. Basic
vii. Etc.
d. By their chemical structure
i. Azo
ii. Anthraquinone
iii. Stilbene
iv. Etc.
e. By their origins
i. Natural
ii. Synthetic
f. By their colors
i. Red
ii. Green
iii. Blue
iv. Black
v. Etc.
021. Dye molecule is constituted of
a. Chromophore
b. Chromogen
c. Auxo-chrome
022. Table of fiber and suitable dyestuff with dyeing method
023. Dyeing definition
024. Theory of dyeing
025. Dyeing mechanism
026. Dyeing method
a. Direct dyeing
b. Stock dyeing
c. Top dyeing
d. Yarn dyeing
e. Piece dyeing
f. Dope dyeing or solution pigmenting
g. Garments dyeing
027. Dyeing process
a. Exhaust dyeing (Discontinuous or batch)
b. Continuous dyeing (PAD)
028. Terms and definition related to dyeing
a. Shade %
b. Substantivity
c. Affinity
d. Color strike
e. Exhaustion
f. Fixation
g. Adsorption
h. Sorption
i. Desorption
j. Anchoring force
029. Some dyeing ingredients
a. Whitening agent
b. Hygroscopic agent
c. Wetting agent
d. Fixing agent
e. Detergent
f. Softening agent
g. Silicon
h. Sequestering agent
i. Stiffening agent
j. Water proofing agent
k. Weight giving agent
l. Rubbing fastness improves
m. Defoaming agent
n. Enzyme
o. Bleaching agent
p. Vinegar
q. Biopolishing
r. Antimildew agent
030. Dyeing problems
031. Finishing
032. Definition of finishing
033. Flowchart of finishing
034. Mechanical finishing treatment
a. Dry finishing
i. Calendering
ii. Cireing
iii. Embossing
iv. Sueding
v. Raising
vi. Shearing
vii. Singeing
b. Wet finishing
i. Wet calendaring
ii. Fulling
iii. Sanforising
iv. Decating
035. Chemical finishing treatments
i. Padding
ii. Spraying
iii. Exhaustion
iv. Coating
v. Softening
vi. Anti-static treatments
vii. Anti-mildew treatments
viii. Dimensional stability
036. Pigment Dyeing
037. Pigment definition
038. Feature of the pigment
039. Factors for selecting right pigment
040. Difference between pigment and dyes
041. Key feature of a good pigment dyeing system
042. Recipe of pigment dyeing
043. Dyeing with different concept
a. Wave dyeing
b. Florescent pigment dyeing
c. Tie die
d. Dip dyeing
e. Rope dyeing
H. printing Related Topics:
H. printing Related Topics:
Textile Printing:
Textile printing is the process of localized application of dyes or pigments and chemicals by any method which can produce particular effect of color on the fabric according to the design.
Steps of Textile Printing:
Preparation of the fabric (singeing, de-sizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing)
Preparation of the print paste (dye+ thickener+ other printing ingredients/chemical
Making an impression of the printing paste on the surface of fabric (actual printing is done according to design by different styles and methods)
Drying of the printed fabric (at 100-1100C for 10-15 minutes by dryer according to types of fabric)
Steaming of the printed fabric (for the fixation of dyes with fiber)
After treatment (soaping, washing to remove unfixed dyes, thickeners from the fabric surface)
Dyes Used For Textile Printing
The Dyes used for printing mostly include vat, reactive, naphthol and disperse colors which have good fastness properties.
The pigments, which are not truly dyes, are also used extensively for printing. These colors are fixed to the fiber through resins that are very resistant to laundering or dry cleaning. Pigments are among the fastest known colors and are effective for light to medium shades. If used for applying dark colors, they may crock or rub off. Improved resins, better pigments or more effective anti-crock agents must be used to solve this problem.
Cheap prints are made from basic colors mixed with tartar emetic and tannic acid but they are not acceptable in today’s market.
For cotton printing vat and reactive dyes are generally used.
Silk is usually printed with acid colors.
Wool is printed with acid or chrome dyes (mordant color) but before printing it is treated with chlorine to make it more receptive to colors.
Manmade fibers are generally printed with disperse and cationic dyes.
Requirements of a Print Paste
Print paste should produce sharp boundaries without any spreading of color.
It should contain different ingredients such as reducing agent, oxidizing agent etc.
All ingredients are not used in a print paste. Depending on the class of the dye being printed and style of printing different ingredient are selected in making print paste.
Ingredients Used for Textile Printing
The essential ingredient of a printing paste is select from the followings-
1. Dyestuffs or Pigments
2. Wetting agents
3. Thickener
4. Solvent, dispersing agents
5. Defoaming agents
6. Oxidizing and Reducing agents
7. Catalyst and Oxygen Carrier
8. Acids and alkalis
9. Carrier and Swelling agents
10. Miscellaneous agents
1. Dyes/Pigments:
Attraction of dye stuff to the fiber due to presence of auxo-chrome.
To achieve color effect on the fabric
To produce required shade.
Example: Vat, Azoic, Reactive, direct etc.
2. Wetting agents:
To wet the fabric as well as dyestuff.
To reduce surface tension of water allowing the dyestuff for easy penetration into fiber.
To obtain smooth paste.
To dissolve the dyestuff in the paste
Example: Olive oil, T.R oil, Caster oil, Lissapol N. Animal oil, Glycerin etc.
3. Solvents/dispersing agents/solution acids:
To get bright design.
To assist dye penetration
To spread dye moles evenly in the past.
Assist dye fixation.
To prevent aggregation of dye molecules in the highly concentrated of the dye.
To prevent precipitation.
To increase solubility of the dyes.
To make proper printing shade
Example: Urea, Glycerin, desirable, Alcohol, Acetone, Diethylene glycol, Thiodiethylene glycol
4. Thickener:
To give required viscosity to the printing paste.
To prevent premature reactions between the chemicals contained in the print paste.
To hold the ingredients of the print paste on the fabric
Example: Na-alginate, fine gum, British gum, CMC
5. Defoaming agents:
To prevent the foam generation during printing.
Example: Silicone, defoamers, sulphated oil, perminol KB, Emulsified pine oil.
5. Oxidizing and reducing agent:
Oxidizing agent:
To develop the final color during steaming or in the subsequent after treatment.
Assisting dye fixation.
Example: Sodium chlorate, Potasium chlorate, Sodium nitrate, Resist salt, Ammonium chloride, Ludigol, Na or K dichromate
Reducing agent:
Used for reduction of different dyes.
Used for mainly in discharge printing.
To destroy colour from the ground of fabric.
To make the insoluble dyes to soluble
Example: Sodium hydrosulphite, Stanus chloride, Rongolite-C etc.
6. Catalyst and oxygen carrier:
To prevent fibre damage during steaming.
Accelerate the final colour development by oxidation.
Reduce the risk of oxidisation.
Example: Copper sulphide, Amimonium vanadate, Potassium ferrocyanide.
7. Acids/Alkalis:
To maintain pH
To develop the colour or printed fabric.
To fix dye on the fabric permanently.
Example: Organic acid Alkali KOH, NaOH, Na2CO3, pottasium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, Sodium acetate.
8. Carrier and swelling agent: Swelling agent:
To create the big size holes of the fibres.
Helps to swell the fibre structure.
To reduce crystallinity.
Help the easy penetration of dye molecule inside the fibre polymer.
Example: Polyethylene Glycol, Phenols, DEGDA (di-ethylene glycol. diacetate)
Carrier:
Used for fixing disperse dyes on polyester or polyester wool blends at temp below 105oC.
e.g. Diphenol, Ortho-phenol, Tri-chloro benzene,Para phenyl phenol
9. Miscellaneous agent:
Hygroscopic agent:
Assist fixation of dyes.
Absorb moisture from air.
Facilitates subsequent washing off.
Methods of Textile Printing:
Method of printing means the method of producing printed pattern. Followings are the important textile printing methods-
Block printing
Screen printing
a) Flat screen printing
b) Rotary screen printing
Stencil printing
Roller printing
Transfer printing
Flock printing
Burn-out printing
Duplex printing
Batik printing
Air brush painting
Spray Printing
Digital ink-jet printing
Block printing:
It is the oldest and most artistic printing method. It is an easy manual process for printing single color. The block used has a general size of 3”x4”–9”x12”.
Block preparation:
A suitable piece of wood, free from all defects is cut to size. The next step is ‘putting on’ of the pattern. A careful outline tracing of the design is transferred by on it and the ground between the color parts are removed.
Process of printing:
The fabric is stretched on a flat table covered with resilient substance, back grey and gunny cloth. The print paste is kept on a color pad. The color pad is kept in a color tray. The block is carefully placed on the color pad. Then it’s raised and the impression of the design is obtained by stamping the block smartly by hand on cloths. After each transfer of print paste the color pad is resupplied evenly with color by means of tie ring brush.
Advantages:
1. Any design can be done.
2. No need of elaborate and extensive equipment.
3. Low initial cost.
4. Simple to operate.
Disadvantages:
1. Slow method and low output.
2. Time consuming.
3. Skilled operator and great care needed.
4. Difficult to join up each repeat perfectly.
5. Difficult to produce multicolor design. (No of blocks = no of color) Prepared by Sumon Mozumder
Screen printing:
Screen printing is an easy process to produce multicolor design. This system requires the use of screen and squeegee. With the help of this squeegee, color is moved on to the fabric. The screens, used are mainly rotary screen and flat screen.
Classification of screen printing machines:
There are four types of screen printing machines. These are –
1. Hand screen printing machine (flat)
2. Semiautomatic screen printing machine.
3. Automatic (fully) flat screen printing machine.
4. Rotary screen printing machine.
1. Hand screen printing:
This type of printing is fully manual process and is now confide normally for high fashion designs. This process is carried out on a flat table covered with resilient support (flat) and a washable blanket over which back grey is placed. The fabric to be printed is adhered on the blanket with clips / brackets and screens are pressed on fabric one for each color. Heat for drying the printed fabric may be provided either under the blanker or by hot air fans. Fabric movement or shrinkage must be avoided during printing in order to maintain the required outline of the design. So some water soluble adhesive is placed on the back grey before fabric is laid down on it. Before commencing to print a design, it must be reproduced on the screen. One screen is required for every color. The process sequence is as follows:
a. Fabric preparation – cotton / polyester / blended etc.
b. Print paste preparation – various types according to requirement.
c. Printing by using screen.
The printing process consists of forcing a viscous print paste through the open areas of the screen with a flexible synthetic rubber blade known as a squeegee. The rubber blade which is contained in a wooden or metal support is drawn steadily across the screen at a constant angle and pressure. If the screen is too wide to allow one operator to reach all the way across it, two operators may work together, one on either side of the table. The pressure exerted by each of the two must be as similar as possible.
For multicolor printing, first one color is printed. Then that screen is picked up and another screen is placed on the same area. Next another color is printed. In case of hand printing, curing process is not carried out. After printing, the screen is washed properly. The initial amount of print paste is very important, otherwise shade variation may result.
Advantages of hand screen printing:
1. Low initial cost.
2. Machinery problem not present.
3. Drying system not necessary.
4. Suitable for small scale production.
5. Multicolor produce possible.
Disadvantages of hand screen printing:
1. Fastness is poor because after treatment cannot be carried out properly.
2. Not suitable for large scale of production.
3. Skilled operator required.
4. Slow process rate.
5. More labour required.
2. Semi-automatic screen (flat) printing machine:
This is almost same as hand screen printing, but the manual process has been semi-automated by mounting the screen on a carriage and driving the squeegee mechanically across the screen. Long tables, typically 20 – 60 m long, are used and some provisions are usually made for drying the printed fabric
It is still popular when high productivity is not required. In both hand and semi automatic flat screen printing, the colors are printed one after another with time for drying between printing one color and the next. That means the situation approaches “wet on dry” printing and but sharp results can’t be achieved by printing the colors in more rapid succession (“wet onwet”).
3. Fully automatic screen printing machine (flat bed):
In fully automatic screen printing machine, all the screens for the design (one screen for each color) are positioned accurately along the top of a long endless blanket. This is the most used process and 8 – 12 colors can be used & no. of screen is more (from 7 to 12).
Process description:
The fabric is gummed to the blanket at the entry end and moves along with the blanket in an intermittent fashion, one screen repeat distance at a time. There is a water soluble adhesive unit at the entry zone; adhesive helps the fabric to be firmly attached and smooth with the blanket. All the colors in the design are printed simultaneously while the fabric is stationery. Then the screens are lifted and the fabric & blanket move on. When the screen is on the fabric, fabric can’t pass because it can be torn. So, screen must be moved upward to assist in the passing of fabric. When the fabric approaches the turning point of the blanket, it is pulled off and passed into a dryer in a little slack state, then into the steaming chambers.
The soiled blanket is washed and dried during its return passage on the underside of the machine. As the adhesive is water soluble, it is easily washed off. The width of the gap between the area printed by one screen and the area printed by adjacent screen must be a whole no. of length ways designs repeats.
4. Rotary screen printing machine:
It is a continuous printing method; the continuous rotation of the cylindrical screen in contact with fabric ensures continuous printing. It is also one kind of roller printing and is very advantageous. So, now days, it is replacing flat screen. The design of the most machines follows the pattern established for fully automatic flat screen machines. Prepared by Sumon Mozumder
Process description:
The print paste is pumped from a container into the screen through a flexible pipe. During printing, the paste is forced out through the design areas with the aid of stationery squeegee. The fabric to be printed runs in contact with the screen on an endless blanket. An adhesive unit applies adhesive to the cloth and washing unit helps in washing.
The screen is adjusted at its two ends but it can rotate. The driving can be done at either side. Its driving mechanism is very complex as screen, fabric and blanket- all are rotating simultaneously. So, each must be maintained individually. The main controlling/maintaining points are:-
a. Regulation of speed.
b. Squeegee system.
c. Driving mechanism.
After a certain time, it must be checked that all colors are being uniformly printed on fabric. The fabric speed ranges from 30 – 50 m/min. standard international circumference of the cylindrical screen is 64 – 65 cm.
Roller printing:
Roller printing or M/C printing is the most economical and fastest way of printing. The output of this M/C cannot be surpassed by any other method of printing. Designs with up to 16 colors present no problem in Roller printing.
Construction:
This M/C consists of a central pressure bowl (1) suitably wrapped with layers of cloth called lapping (2) around which an endless woolen blanket (3) ,a back grey (4) and the cloth (5) to be printed circulate in contact with each other.
An engraved printing roller of shell (6) mounted on a steel shaft or mandrel (7) revolves in contact with the pressure bowl above and a furnisher roller (8) below which partly dips in the printing paste kept in the color box (9).
A sharp edged steel blade called color doctor (10) rests on the engraved roller on one side and a brass blade lint doctor(11) rests on the other by suitable weights and levers.
Working procedure:
The fabric to be printed is placed on the impression cylinder. The pressure cylinder comes to the contact of engraved roller by rotating forwards.
The engraved roller is first supplied with the printing paste by the furnisher roller. This paste is deposited in the engravings as well as applied on the smooth surface.
Fig: Roller printing m/c
When the engraved roller rotates, it comes into contact with the color doctor which scrapes the excess color (paste) from the smooth surface and allows the paste deposited in the engravings to remain there. Subsequently, it makes an impression on the fabric by depositing the paste contained in the engraving.
During the further rotation of the engraved roller, it meets the lint doctor which is placed at an angle against the rotation of the roller. It cleans the engraving rollers by removing fibres, faulty matters.
A no. of engraved rollers provided with separate furnishers, color boxes and color doctor and lint doctors are placed around the central pressure bowl so that by a single passage of the cloth through the M/C all the colors required in the design are printed, each roller supplying a part of the design.
Advantages:
1. Suitable for large scale production.
2. High speed M/C and hence more production.
3. Can be used for fine printing.
4. Can be made/prepared high quality design due to not joint mark.
5. Possible to print in complex weave design.
Disadvantages:
1. Changing time high. So, not suitable in small scale production.
2. Engraving the printing roller is an expensive operation.
3. May be light printing shade.
4. Crush effect produce.
Defects in Roller Printing:
When sand particles in the printing paste cut the smooth surface of the unengaged roller, the scratches produced will also transfer the paste to the cloth. By burnishing the roller as well as by straining/filtering the printing paste again this fault may be removed.
Sometimes large double stripes of color called snappers appear along the length of the cloth due to solid coming under the color doctor edge. Washing, cleaning the doctor blade, roller and filtering the paste are to prevent this defects.
Streaks appear as fine lines or series of lines running along the piece and parallel to selvedge due to scratches on the engraved roller and cut in the color doctor blade edge. Polishing the roller and sharpening the doctor blade edge can remedy this problem.
Scrumming is the fault arising out of insufficient scraping of the printing paste from the unengraved portion of the printing roller by the doctor blade.
Uneven printing is another fault due to the faulty of the cloth, the roller, the printing paste and working of the M/C.
The printed cloth with deeper shades near one selvedge than near the other due to uneven pressure exerted by the engraved roller on the pressure bowl and faulty setting.
If the fitting of the engraved roller on the mandrel is not perfect, it slips while rotating, this defect known as lobbing of the engraved roller.
Defects in Screen Printing:
When uneven pressure is exerted by the squeegee during the stroke, the resulting print becomes lighter on one selvedge and becomes gradually deeper towards the other .Uneven steaming may also lead to this fault.
The prints may come out lighter in the middle and deeper towards the selvedges. This occurs when too much cloth is steamed in one batch or when the cloth is very thick.
Very small specks of color appear on the ground (unprinted portions) when the screen has tiny holes in the blocked areas. In this case, the screen should be inspected and lacquer applied at these places.
When the printing has too much solids in it, especially in pigment printing, the screen may got choked (clogged) during working. This results in light prints after working for some time.
When the screen is placed on a previously printed area with another color, which is not dried , the back of the screen picks up some paste and transfers it to the next area where it is placed, leading to smudging of the print.
Deeper prints are obtained irregularly throughout the material. This may due to uneven table surface and hence the squeegee exerts different pressures at different places.
Deeper prints appear throughout the cloth in the direction of the weft (direction of the squeegee stroke). Uneven edge of the squeegee leads to this fault. This may remedied by sharpening in the squeegee edge.
If the squeegee vibrates while applying the pressure (stroking) deep stripes along the warp appear.
When a paste containing a large amount of foam is printed, lighter prints are obtained throughout the cloth.
If a soft squeegee is used on a hard table surface deeper prints are produced. On the other hand, if a hard squeegee is used on a soft table surface, fine lines of the designs are not obtained.
Styles of printing:
Styles of printing means the manner in which a printed effect is produced. Styles of printing are-
1. Direct style
2. Discharge style
3. Resist style
4. Azoic style
5. Creep style
6. Flock style
7. Burn-out style
Direct style:
The dyes are printed directly at the required places on the fabric to produce multi colored design, leaving the other portions white. Thus a multi colored print on a white ground can be produced.
Discharge style:
Discharge style of printing means the process which can produce a white or color effect on a previously dyed ground. Discharge style of printing is carried out by the following steps-
1st step: Dyeing: Fabric is dyed firstly with an easily reducible dye.
2nd step: Printing:
o The fabric is printed with a thickened solution of discharging agent.
o This discharging agent destroys the color at the printed areas and leaves the dye of unprinted areas unaffected.
o If any dye is present in the solution of discharging agent which is not affected by its discharging action, can also be deposited and fixed on the ground.
o Reducing agent must be stronger than Dye.
3rd Step: Steaming
4th Step: Washing
Types of discharge style:
I) White discharge: After dyeing and printing, the discharge agents discharge the dye of printed areas and leave the dye present on the unprinted area unaffected. A while design is produced on color ground.
II) Color Discharge: The colored printing paste removes the initial value from the colored ground and at the same time deposits color on the original ground.
Resist style: In this process, a substance is applied to the fabric that will prevent the fixation of any coloring agent employed afterwards on that area. Resist style of printing is carried out by the following steps-
Step-1: Printing-The fabric is printed with a resist salt solution which is sprayed on the fabric mechanically or manually.
Step-2: Dyeing-The fabric is dyed with a suitable dye as a result the areas covered by the resist salt will not be dyed and other portions would be dyed.
Types of resist style:
I) White Resist: No color is added to the print paste solution with resist salt and after dyeing the printed area remains white.
II) Color resist: Coloring matter is added to the print past with resist salt. The printed area contains the color added to print paste and the remaining areas will contain the color of dye solution.
Flock Style:
Flock is a branch of short fibre. In the electrostatic method of flocking, the fabric is printed with on adhesive and passes on a moving belt through an electric charge. The flock made from cotton, rayon, is filtered from the flock hopper on to the fabric and is attracted to the adhesive.
Creep Style:
In this style, printing is performed after alkali treatment or heat setting.
Pigment Printing
Pigment:
Pigment is a substance in particulate form which is insoluble in water but which can be
mechanically dispersed in this medium to modify its color and light scattering properties. In
pigment printing, pigments have no affinity to the fiber. It is fixed on the textile fabrics with
binding agent in required pattern. Binders along with a fixer help the printing particles to be
fixed on the fabric. At the end of printing only drying and fixation are necessary. This drying and
fixation are done at a high temp for a short time. But it needs no washing after printing. Now a
days pigment printing is very popular and almost 50% textile printing is carried out by pigments.
These pigments are marketed in the form of dispersion & called pigment emulsion.
Important components for good pigment printing:
For a successful pigment printing the following components are the most important:-
1. Pigment dispersion (0.1-3 microns)
2. Binder (3-dimentional polymer which forms a coating )
3. Fixer (a cross linking agent which help the binder in function )
4. Thickener (natural thickener should be used )
Functions of Ingredients of print paste in pigment printing:
The functions of the ingredients of the print paste of pigment printing are mentioned below:
1. PIGMENT: Pigments impart color to the print
2. BINDERS: Binders are long chain polymer macromolecules. They impart stickiness and
plasticity to the print paste. They help to adhere the pigment particles on the fiber surface.
3. FIXERS: Fixers are cross linking agents which help the binders in their functioning.
4. CATALYST: Catalysts promote the cross-linking reaction, leading to the fixation of the
binder to the fabric. Catalysts are acid liberating agents which under suitable conditions
initiate the cross linking agent.
Characteristics of a good quality pigment print:
A good quality pigment print is characterized by the following properties:-
1. Brilliant and high color value relative to the pigment concentration in the paste.
2. Minimum stiffness in handle of textile material.
3. Good fastness properties like fastness to light, wash, alkali, solvents and especially to
rubbing.
Characteristics of a good quality Binder:
Binders and fixers play important rolls in pigment printing in achieving optimum fastness
properties.
Binders are film forming substances made up of long chain macro molecules which when
applied to the textile together with the pigment produces three dimensionally linked networks.
The characteristics of a good binder are mentioned below:
· It should not impart any harsh and stiff surface to handle the fabric. It should create a soft handle.
· It should impart good rubbing and washing fastness properties to the print.
· It should not impart any unhygienic or bad chemical affect on the print.
· It should form a film like coating on the fabric during the curing process and should have good sticking capacity to hold the fiber and pigment particles together.
· The coating produced by binder should be transparent.
· It should be cheap and available and should have a long lasting effect on print.
Merits and Demerits of Pigment printing:
The advantages of pigment printing are mentioned below:
· Pigments are cheap and available.
· The Printing procedure with pigments involving printing, drying and curing is very simple.
· No washing or rinsing is required after printing.
· It is applicable to all types of fibers and fabrics.
· It can produce a wide range of color with good fastness properties.
· It can produce brilliant shades.
· Printing speed is high in case of pigment printing.
· The disadvantages of pigment printing are mentioned below:
· Pigments are water insoluble.
· Bad crocking fastness.
· Over printing is not possible.
· Unhygienic polymers are used sometimes.
· Less resistant to chemical finishing and cleanings.
· Fabric handle is stiff.
Best field of Application of pigments in Textile printing:
The best fields of application of pigments in textiles coloration are mentioned below:
· Pigment printing is very suitable for decorative printing on cotton and regenerated cellulose.
· Women’s and children’s cloths, knit wears etc are printed by pigments.
· Cotton towels are applied pigment coloration.
· Nylon, polyester, spun, rayon, linen fabrics are suitably printed by pigments
· Pigments are used for light to medium shade producing.
· Pigments are cheap and available. Now a days almost 50% textile printing is occurred by pigments.
Reasons for using pigment on any textile fabrics:
In case of printing with dyestuff, the dyestuffs enter the fiber structure and are physically or
chemically bonded to the fabric. For this reason the dye should have affinity towards the fiber and should be water soluble. As a result particular dye cannot be conveniently applied to all fibers. But pigments need not to have any affinity to textile materials. They are sticked on fiber/fabric by the help of binder and fixer. The binder is an adhesive type polymeric material and it is used to fix up the pigment particles on the surface of fiber. Again unlike dyestuffs pigment particles do not enter the fiber polymer system. Its fastness property depends on the binding property of the gum which holds the fiber and pigments together. When the binder and fixer form a transparent film which then entraps the pigment particles and combines them chemically. So pigments are widely used on all types of fabrics.
Printing on cotton /polyester/ their blend with pigment printing:
Recipe:
Pigment : 5 parts
Binder emulsion : 94 parts
Fixer : 1 part
Procedure:
At first the binder emulsion is produced. Then the pigment and the fixer are mixed with it
and made a printing paste. Then it is applied on the fabric surface by block or screen printing.
After treatment:
When printing has completed then the printed fabric is treated in the following way:
Drying : 70-800C for 5-10 minutes
Curing : 140-1500 c for 5 minutes.
Some special printing
1. Burn-out printing
2. Flock printing
3. Transfer printing
4. Ink-jet printing
Thickener:
Thickener is a thick mass which imparts stickiness and plasticity to the print paste so that it may be applied on the fabric surface without color bleeding or spreading and be capable of maintaining the design outlines even under high pressure.
Functions of thickener in print paste:
a) To give required viscosity to the print paste.
b) To prevent premature reaction between the chemicals contained in the print paste.
c) To hold the ingredients of the paste on the fabrics.
d) To hold or adhere the dye particles in the desired place on the fabric.
Factors to be considered to select a suitable thickener:
a) Should have certain physical and chemical properties.
b) Type and quality of material to be printed.
c) Compatibility with dyes and chemicals.
d) Print paste stability.
e) Styles and methods of printing.
f) Properties of the dried thickener film.
g) Effect on color yield, such as-diffusion, fixation.
h) Easy preparation and removal of the thickener.
i) Cost consideration and economically availability.
Classification of thickener:
1) Natural thickener
Cereal starch (ex-maize starch, wheat starch)
Plant exudates (ex-gum tragacanth, gum arabic, gum karaya)
Roots and seeds (ex-guar gum, locust bean gum)
Sea weeds (ex-sodium alginate)
2) Modified natural thickener
Starch derivatives (ex-british gum)
Cellulose derivatives (ex-carboxyl methyl cellulose , hydroxyl ethyl cellulose)
Gum derivatives (ex-meypro gum)
3) Synthetic thickener
Acrylic (ex-polyacrylic acid, polyacrylic amides)
Vinyl (ex-polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl acetate)
Prepared by Sumon Mozumder Ph.D. Researcher (BUP), M.Engg. (BUET), M.Sc. Engg. (Textile), B.Sc. Engg. (BUTex)
Essential qualities of thickener:
· Stability (physical-chemical stability) should be good.
· It should have certain physical and chemical properties such as viscosity, flow property, ability to adhere and wet to the internal surface of engravings of the engraved roller.
· It must be compatible with the other ingredients of the printing paste.
· The thickener film should dry properly on the fabric to prevent spreading of the color.
· Proper extraction of water from steam during steaming should be ensured to provide free space for the dye molecules to move towards the fabric.
· The thickener should not have affinity for the dyes and should not keep the dye from the fabric.
· The thickener molecule should have a control over the free water pick up and not carry the dye beyond the boundaries of the impression.
· The thickener should be cheap and available in abundance.
· After perform printing, the useable media i.e. Block, Roller, Screen should be easily cleanable.
· Once the dye is transferred from the thickener film the removal of the exhausted thickener film should be easier.
Thickener preparation:
1. Starch and Starch derivatives:
Starch is a homopolymer of glucose. It consists of 20-30% linear amylose and 80-70% branched amylopectin. Normally 10% Starch paste is prepared.
Recipe:
Starch = 100 parts
Water = 900 parts
Total = 1000 parts
Time = 15 minutes
Temperature = Maximum 600 C
2. Gum Tragacanth:
A 6% paste of this gum is usually prepared.
Recipe:
Tragacanth = 60 parts
Water = 940 parts
Time = 2-3 days
Temperature = 1000C
3. Starch Tragacanth:
Recipe:
Wheat starch = 400 parts
Gum tragacanth = 600 parts
Temperature = 1000C
4. Gum Arabic:
A 60% paste is prepared by boiling. Prepared by Sumon Mozumder Ph.D. Researcher (BUP), M.Engg. (BUET), M.Sc. Engg. (Textile), B.Sc. Engg. (BUTex)
Recipe:
Gum Arabic = 600 parts
Water = 400 parts
Time = 3 hours
Temperature = 1000C
5. Locust bean gum:
A 2-3% paste is made where pH is maintained in between 3 and 4. 20 gram of gum powder is scattered in a solution of borax (4-5gm/l) while stirring. The paste is made slightly acidic and heated between 800 C and 900 C.
6. Guar gum:
A 2% solution gives thick paste and it is non-ionic in nature.
7. Meypro gum:
5% paste is prepared and it is a modified guar gum.
8. Guar Arabic and Crystal gum:
A 20% paste is made widely used for polyester and nylon etc.
9. Sodium Alginate:
It is obtained from sea-weeds and widely used for printing with reactive dyes. It has good stability in wide range of pH 4-10 and normally 6% paste is prepared.
10. Carboxyl Methyl Cellulose:
This is made by reacting cellulose with concentrated NaOH solution and then reacting with sodium monochloro acetate. Generally 2% solution is made.
Suitability of thickeners in print paste preparation:
1. Starch: No reaction with alkali and suitable to that dyestuff which are printed with alkali.
2. Gum tragacanth: Suitable to that fabric which do not require washing properly after printing.
3. Gum arabic: Suitable to do printing of nylon and silk fabric with acid dye and cotton fabric with vat dye. It is also easy to be removed from the fabric after printing process.
4. Gum karaya: Suitable to printing with direct dyestuff.
5. Locust bean gum: Printing with vat dyestuff with alkali.
6. Sodium alginate: Widely used for printing with reactive dye.
7. British gum: Printing with vat dye and discharge color.
8. CMC: Suitable for printing with vat dyestuff and azo dye and its removal process after the fixation of color is easier.
Emulsion Thickener:
Emulsion is the mixture of two immiscible liquid like oil and water where mechanical energy is used to break up one component of the mixture into small droplet that are dispersed in the other component with the help of a surface active emulsifier to bring about stability. An emulsion has two distinct phases, including disperse phase and outer continuous phase. Emulsion thickener is a thickener for textile printing consists of emulsifier, water and water immiscible liquid (chiefly kerosene or white spirit). Depending on the type of emulsifier, two types of emulsion thickener are formed, such as water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion: water in kerosene or white spirit and oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion: kerosene/white spirit in water. Emulsion thickener is very effective in printing with pigment, reactive or disperse dyes. Prepared by Sumon Mozumder Ph.D. Researcher (BUP), M.Engg. (BUET), M.Sc. Engg. (Textile), B.Sc. Engg. (BUTex)
Synthetic Thickener:
Synthetic thickeners are weakly cross linked copolymers of oleofinic monomers containing carboxyl groups with a high molecular weight which act as thickeners in the range of pH 7-10. Synthetic thickeners are extremely sensitive to electrolyte and to bruising (tendering). Some generic names of synthetic thickeners are polyelectrolyte, poly vinyl alcohol, co-polymer of acrylates and ethyl acrylates. Synthetic thickeners are made artificially and typically designed to offer high viscosity at low concentrations. Synthetic thickeners are efficient at only 1-3 % concentration level while approximately 10% of a natural thickener is needed to give the required viscosity in the print paste. Other advantages of synthetic thickeners include rapid make-up since they require no waiting for hydration to occur, sharp print boundaries, and controlled penetration which usually provides greater color value and levelness. It gives sufficiently higher fixation rate in disperse dyeing.
I. Textile Quality Related Topics:
I. Textile Quality Related Topics:
001. Fiber quality
002. Quality parameter
a. Length
b. Strength
c. Count (Mic)
d. Neps
e. Short fiber content
f. Maturity ratio
g. Dust
h. Trash
i. Color Grade
j. Moister regain
k. Spinning consistency index (SCI)
l. UHML
m. UQL
n. Uniformity Index
o. Short Fiber Index
p. Elongation
q. Reflectance
r. Yellowness
s. Fluorescence
t. High length-to-width ratio
u. Flexibility
v. Spinning quality
w. Uniformity
x. Resiliency
y. Flammability
z. Tenacity
aa. Density
bb. Lusture
cc. Fiber Fineness (GK-11)
dd. Spun Length (GK-25)
ee. Staple Length (GK-11 & 25)
ff. Model Length (GK-25)
gg. Uniformity ratio (GK-19)
hh. Short fiber (GK-19)
ii. Maturity Index (HVI Main File-06)
jj. Specific Gravity
003. Quality check machine
a. HVI(Bundle)
b. AFIS
c. Shirley Trash Analyzer
004. Yarn quality
005. Quality parameter
a. Count
b. Strength
c. Twist
d. Co-efficient of Variance
e. Unevenness
f. Irregularity
g. Mass Variation
h. Deviation rate
i. Thick and thin place
j. Neps
k. Imperfection Index (IPI)
l. CSP
m. Hairiness
n. Fault of yarn (GK-14
006. Quality check machine
a. Uster evenness tester
b. Ele twist tester
007. Fabric quality
008. Quality parameter
a. Abrasion test
b. Color fastness test
c. Tensile strength
d. Tearing strength
e. Length
f. Width
g. Thickness
h. Weight per unit area
i. Thread per inch
j. GSM
k. Crimp of yarn in fabric
l. Bending length
m. Fabric stiffness
n. Flexural rigidity
o. Fault Inspection
009. Quality check machine
010.
011. Dyeing quality
012. Quality parameter
a. Wash fastness
b. Rubbing fastness (Crockmeter)
c. Light fastness
d. Shed
e. Fabric absorbency (before dyeing)
013. Quality check machine
014.
015. Printing quality
016. Quality parameter
a. Print paste viscosity
017. Quality check machine
018.
019. Washing quality
020. Quality parameter
021. Quality check machine
022.
023. Garments quality
024. Quality parameter
a. Seam evenness
b. Grain line
025. Quality check machine
026.
027. Overall quality
028. Quality parameter
029. Quality check machine
030. Others
a. What is swelling (GK-23)
j. apparel Related Topics:
j. apparel Related Topics:
001. Garments Manufacturing Sequence
002. Pattern making
003. Block pattern
004. Methods of block pattern making
a. Flat method
b. Modeling
005. Garments pattern
006. Sample garments making
007. Components of a shirt
008. Components of a pant
009. The standard measurement of Men’s body
010. The standard measurement of Women’s body
011. Principle of pattern making for shirt
012. Marker making
013. Definition of marker
014. Marker efficiency
015. Factors which are involved with the marker efficiency
016. Constrains of marker making
017. Methods of marker making
a. Manual marker making
i. With full size pattern
ii. With small size pattern
b. Computer aided marker making
018. Methods of drawing & duplicating a marker
a. Marking by hand on paper
i. Carbon duplicating method
ii. Sprit duplicating
iii. Duplicating in photographic method
iv. Perforated marker
b. Computerized marking on paper
c. Photographic system
d. Drawing by chalk or pencil
019. Fabric wastage outside marker
020. Fabric Spreading
021. Requirements of fabric spreading
022. Types of fabric lays
a. Based on construction
i. Straight lay
ii. Stepped lay
b. Based on direction of spreading
i. All face up/down
ii. Face to face
iii. Zig-zag
023. Types of fabric package
a. Open fabric rolled
b. Tubular knitted fabric rolled
c. Folded fabric rolled
d. Folded fabric cuttled
e. Hanging fabric package
024. Methods of fabric spreading
a. Manual method
b. Mechanical method
025. Types of splice
a. Straight line splice
b. Interlock splice
026. Fabric cutting
027. Requirements of fabric cutting
028. Methods of fabric cutting
a. Manual method
b. Computerized method
029. Interlining
030. Sewn interlining
031. Fusible interlining
032. Advantages of fusing
033. Condition of fusing
034. Types of fusible interlining
a. Polyethylin coated interlining
b. Polypropylin coated interlining
c. Polyester coated interlining
d. PVC coated interlining
e. PVA coated interlining
035. Properties of fusible interlining
036. Methods of resin coating
037. Fusing machine
038. Types of fusing machine
a. Hand iron
b. Flat bed fusing machine
c. Continuous fusing press
d. High frequency fusing
039. Types of fusing
a. Reverse fusing
b. Sandwich fusing
c. Double fusing
040. Quality control in fusing
041. Sewing
042. Properties of a seam
043. Seam types
a. Class-1: Super imposed seam
b. Class-2: Lapped seam
c. Class-3: Bound seam
d. Class-4: Flat seam
e. Class-5: Decorative seam
f. Class-6: Edge neatening seam
g. Class-7
h. Class-8
044. Stitch types
a. Stitch class-100: Chain stitch
b. Stitch class-200: Hand stitch
c. Stitch class-300: Lock stitch
d. Stitch class-400: Multi thread chain stitch
e. Stitch class-500: Over edge stitch
f. Stitch class-600: Covering chain stitch
045. Sewing machine feed mechanism
a. Drop fed system
b. Differential bottom feed
c. Adjustable top feed system
d. Needle feed system
e. Unison feed
046. Sewing machine needles
047. Sewing thread
048. Sewing thread classification
a. According to fiber types
b. According to Thread construction
c. According to Thread finishing
049. Metric ticket number system
050. Thread package
051. Properties of sewing thread
052. Relationship between thread size, needle size, and fabric
053. Sewing problem
a. Problems of stitch formation
b. Puckering problem
c. Fabric defects along the sewing line
054. Sewing machine
a. Manually operated sewing machine
b. Electrically operated sewing machine
055. Alternatives methods of joining
a. Fusing
b. Welding and adhesive
c. Moulding
056. Comparison of sewing and alternative method of joining
057. Trimmings
058. Label and motif
059. Zipper
060. Buttons
061. Sewing thread
062. Interlining
063. Lining
064. Hook and loop formation
065. Lace braid and elastic
066. Wadding
067. Shoulder pad
068. Quality of trimmings
069. Pressing and finishing
070. Object of pressing
071. Categories of pressing
072. Means of pressing
073. Pressing equipment and methods
i. Iron
ii. Steam press
iii. Steam air finish
iv. Steam tunnel
074. Spot removing
075. Garments finishing
076. Care label code
077. The types of important parts of a shirt
078. Quality control
079. Inspection
a. Raw material inspection
i. Fabric inspection
ii. Four-point system
iii. Sewing thread inspection
b. In process inspection
i. Marker making
ii. Fabric spreading
iii. Fabric cutting
iv. Fabric sewing
v. Pressing or finishing
c. Final inspection
i. No inspection
ii. Hundred percent inspection
iii. Spot checking
iv. Arbitrary sampling
v. Acceptance sampling
080. Product quality audit
081. Comparability checks
082. Standard commercial fabrics
083. Defects in fabrics
084. Garments costing
085. Garments costing sheet
086. Fabrics consumption
087. Sewing thread consumption
088. Others (GK-Apparel Section)
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